Category: Grooming Tools

Buy, Sell, Trade Pages:  Scam Avoidance 101

If you have ever purchased something you are unhappy with, chances are you have either returned it, let it gather dust in a bottom drawer, or sold it to someone else.  It is great to sell or donate items that just gather in the bottom drawers of your station.  You will get extra money in your pocket, someone else will get tools they may not have been able to afford otherwise, and now you have open space and money to put towards other tools you may be wanting to try out.  This makes buy, sell, trade sound great.  Unfortunately, there are a million ways to scam, and although I try helping everyone who reaches out to avoid scams, I also get messages from others who have already been scammed so let’s briefly go over a few things.

Used Clippers
If you are going to buy a used clipper on a buy, sell, trade group, I suggest doing research first.  What is the current new retail price?  What are common issues with these clippers?  What do common repairs cost?  If this clipper needs repairs that are not being advertised, will it still be worth it?  When folks local to me are planning to sell a clipper, sometimes they ask me if I will review the clipper and verify if it has any faults or passes all function tests.  Typically, on these services, I offer to replace general maintenance parts such as lever/blade drive and hinge.  You may see clippers for sale that the seller says were checked by a sharpener first.  That is great but be sure to ask who the sharpener is and if they can confirm they saw the clippers.  If you are buying a cordless, keep in mind, you might receive a clipper that needs a new battery very soon.  New batteries range from around 75-95 US Dollars.  When I test a clipper, I cannot tell you how long a battery or motor will remain functional.  I test it to be sure everything still functions as it should at the date of service.  Used clippers can be a very great deal, but just know a used clipper is typically an AS IS purchase vs. a new clipper’s warranty-protected purchase.  If the used clipper price is only $50-85 less than the price for a new one, I would personally pass on that deal.  Also, when figuring out the price, look at the price of the used clipper plus shipping and plus the cost of a new lever/blade drive and hinge.  These are maintenance parts that are rarely changed as often as manufacturers recommend, so they will likely need to be replaced upon purchase.  If not, consider that a pleasant surprise.

Used Blades

If you want to buy used blades, this can be a great deal!  The part of it that really stresses me out, however, is most folks selling blades online only post a picture of the blade face.  This is not suspicious or incriminating.  They want you to be able to see what sizes are available, teeth spacing, skip-tooth vs. finishing, etc.  The problem is, a blade can have a gorgeous face, and be completely dead.  If you want to purchase used blades online, and you do not know the seller, do not be afraid to ask to see a side view showing the rails, and maybe even a back view which could show if it has abnormal wear or damages.  It is important to see the rail from both sides as well, because unfortunately not all blades are level.  One side may have a decent rail left, while the other side is completely diminished.  Also, when you buy a used blade, just assume sharpening is needed unless it is a reputable seller.  If the used blade costs $15 plus shipping, and then you have to have it sharpened as well, will it be worth having a used blade instead of just purchasing a new blade?  Be mindful of the expenses and what new-retail value is.  I get a lot of used blades and usually offer them sharpened for $15-$20 each.  To me, that is a fair price for a used blade that still has rails for future sharpening. 

Used Shears

There are sharpeners out there who can spot an ill-set shear from a mile away, and that just is not me..YET.  Obviously once I have it in my shop, and I squint just right with it held at the perfect angle to the lighting, I can identify a set issue (where one blade does not meet the other just right resulting in hair folding).  What is even more unfortunate is if a shear folds hair it could be dull, damaged, or ill-set.  There are so many things to observe when inspecting a shear before sharpening, and some of those things require me to use a large, lit magnifying lens.  Unfortunately, looking at a picture online will not clearly identify some issues.  To safeguard pricey purchases on shears, you may ask for a picture showing the open shears, inside of each blade to see the rideline and any possible damage to the cutting edge.  You may also ask them to show you how it cuts in video or video chat.  (Keep in mind this is if they are selling shears $100 or over.  Please don’t be creepy and video call someone selling a $10 pair of shears.  If you do, please do not say I sent you.)
A lot of the questions I get on used shears purchases include pictures of shears that over-close.  Nine times out of ten, this is caused by a missing bumper which is a relatively easy fix.  I told one of my clients last week to also ask for a picture of the handles of a shear that over-closed, and I saw the missing bumper, so I told her we could fix them.  Today I got to her salon, added the bumper, sharpened, reconvexed, and the shears cut great.  I think she got them for $10 or $20.  They are a cheaper brand shear, but they will serve her well at that low cost. 
Used shears can be a great way to get shears you may not have otherwise been able to afford.  While there are risks as far as undisclosed damages, many sharpeners can do great repair work and you can always consult a certified master sharpener if repair work is deemed too difficult by your normal go-to sharpener.  As with any used purchase, consider the used-price plus shipping and sharpening compared to the price of the new shear.  Also with shears, I always recommend purchasing those that are 440C or greater quality.  Those will last much longer.

Secure Payment for Used Tools

If you choose to buy used tools, be sure to choose a payment form that protects you as the buyer.  Paypal friends and family will not be refunded if you get scammed.  Be sure to select goods and services.  If you think someone may be a scammer, kindly voice your concern.  Let them prove they are not a scammer.  If you are scammed, make sure it is known to prevent others from being scammed.  There was recently a very inexpensive dryer on a buy, sell, trade group.  The seller accepted payment from 5 different people (could have been more, but 5 came forward that I saw), and then no one got a refund or the dryer.  It is just unfortunate that scamming and dishonesty have become so prevalent in our society, but do not let it get you down.  Shop savvy and ask questions!  Even though I am a retailer, I love seeing people get great deals on used gear so I would love to help. 

Also, feel free to ask what used items I have in stock.  I typically have a few used corded clippers and a drawer full of used blades.  If you have a local grooming for your state or your city, consider establishing a swap meet to meet, mingle, buy, sell, and trade. 

*Note: This was written and posted on Groomies prior to the release of the AGS 3FW and the Zolitta 3FW. All of them are amazing blades from amazing folks, so I am adding this note to give credit where credit is due. Enjoy!*

Anyone who has followed any of my writing on my website or across the grooming networks knows, there are a few things that I harp on all the time:  Oil, Levers/Blade Drives, and Hinges.  Proper lubrication and scheduled maintenance routines will save you so much time and money in the long run.  Also, knowing what you NEED helps you avoid overpaying on repairs that you may not need.  Most of the sharpeners I know are great, honest people, and there are sharpeners I do not know that are great people too.  I am just trying to protect you from sharpeners that may be out to make a profit from someone who doesn’t know their tools.  I am here to protect you, help you save money, and help you learn things that maybe were not part of your initial training as a groomer.

One question I get weekly, at least, is, “Do you sell wide blades?”.  There are a dozen questions after I say yes such as what’s the longest length, do I have the guard combs, and what good deals exist on them.  Up until very recently, the longest standard wide blade was the 4fw, but now Bucchelli has released the 3FW.  Yes!  I will stock these!  With that said, my first question to the manufacturer was, “What does that thing weigh?”  He took one out of the packaging, weighed, and responded that it weighs 4.1 ounces.  As dog groomers, you may be asking, “why would THAT be your question?!”, but the answer is easy. *

The more weight that you continue to add onto that hinge, clipped down on your clipper, the more things are affected:
1.  4.1 ounces is a lot of weight to add to your tool weight.  More weight means sooner hand fatigue, more wear on your wrist, potential irritation for those with current or previous shoulder injuries/damage, etc.  Self-preservation should always come first when considering new tools.  Sure a wide blade will add it’s own conveniences in cutting down time on a groom, and for some that time difference will justify lugging the extra weight.  Just know this will not be the case for everyone.

2.  4.1 ounces is a heavy weight to set down onto your hinge, and as the blade is engaged on that hinge, it is going to cause wear faster than say a regular sized blade would.  Also, hinge issues will usually present first on your heavier blades, so those standard blades that are 5/8” or longer, wide blades (especially the 5’s, 4’s, and now 3’s).  These are the blades that truly test the integrity of your hinge, so if it is compromised in any way, these blades will struggle. 

3.  We all act like we understand the blade drives and levers, but the fact is, as groomers, “understanding” it means we know it is a part that gets replaced more than the other parts.  Honestly when I was taught to groom, my instructor got ill part-way through my training (cancer sucks), and a lot of information was missing so I had to ask questions and learn the best I could.  The information I managed to gather on blade drives was, “if you really have to push your blade, replace your blade drive.”  My friends, that thing should be replaced MONTHLY.  If you have a clipper using a lever, replace that every 3-4 months.  As that drive is moving side to side to push your cutter, it is taking on wear.  A wide blade is going to have a larger friction area because it IS indeed wide.  This means a longer rail getting oiled at the top and bottom of the cutter on the blade comb.  This also means failure to oil, or the false belief that cool care is an oil substitute will result in quick wear on blade drives/levers and excessive wear on your clipper motor.

So the take away here: use oil, pay attention to if your body is struggling with the extra weight, and prepare to change parts more frequently. 

Andis blade drives swapped monthly may need to be changed sooner if you see the edges rounding off.  Levers may need to be every 2-3 months instead of 3-4 months.  With proper oiling, you may be just fine, but inspect them and do not go beyond the suggested maintenance timeline. 

Usually for hinges I say replace them annually.  In some cases, they will need to be replaced sooner if you notice wear, so do checks on your hinge.  Does it wobble side to side?  When blades are “locked down” does it still easily lift?  Are your blades all starting to sound loud?  These are all signs it may be time to replace this part.  An added benefit of always stocking a new hinge is for troubleshooting purposes.  If you suspect your hinge is bad, it is very simple to put on your new one and see if that fixes your issues, or if another issue may exist.  When changing a hinge, it is very important to get those screws tightened down securely.  Failure to screw the screws in tight will result in a ruckus.  Literally.  They will run so loud you will want to cry, and you will pay a sharpener who probably just does an extra quarter turn on the hinge screws. 

Oiling the blades will make the parts last much longer, so how often should you oil?  When I was a groomer, I wouldn’t even stop grooming to eat or use the restroom so if you told me to oil my blades I would scoff.  Now that I have been sharpening a while, if I groom a dog to teach other groomers or to help a family in need with their pet, I oil regularly.  By regularly I mean every time my blade warms up and I swap it out, I oil the rails before I set it down to cool off.  I never thought this would make a huge difference, but by doing this, I do notice the blades stay cool way longer while I am grooming.  I used to really think the added step would slow me down, but since I have to change my blades less frequently, this oiling technique actually saves me time.  I recommend asking your sharpener if they have needle oilers if you do not already have one.  This will ensure you are not making a giant oily mess and minimize oil that transfers to dog fur.  I use a needle oiler, and just brush the face of the blade off on a towel at my station or on my pants before taking it to a coat and I never have an issue with oil getting on the coat. 

When I say to be mindful of if you are “noticing the weight”, I mean to listen to your body as you change up your tools.  Overuse can cause muscle failure in your hands just like any other muscles.  I have personally experienced this, and luckily I was able to switch tools before permanent damage was done, avoiding a carpal tunnel surgery.  The clippers I was using were about 17 oz, and I switched to one that was closer to 14.9 oz.  Every ounce makes a huge difference if your hands are compromised, (and let’s be real, most groomers have sustained some degree of hand damage).  The weight of the 3FW is 4.1 oz in comparison to a regular 3F blade which weighs 3.2-3.6 oz depending on the brand.  To me that is a significant weight difference.  While I know the 3F leaves a more desired finish on certain coat types, I do strongly urge groomers to use a guard comb instead when possible just to have the lighter weight and lesser wear on their tools and hand. 

While on the topic of wide blades and how they wear on a clipper, many groomers also ask which clippers are suitable for wide blades?  This leads groomers to think some clippers will not make the cut, or that since wide blades are a newer craze in the grooming market, that older clippers must not be strong enough.  I am here to tell you, livestock folks have been using wide blades a long time, and many of them have ancient Oster A5 clippers, Andis AGC 2 speeds, and Andis Excel 5 speeds.  So yes, there are clippers that have been around forever that these folks use wide blades on.  Yes the Andis Pulse ZR2 and the new Wahl KMX are new preferred picks in livestock, the Andis Excel 5 Speed is still a forerunner too.  Those 3 clippers are the top 3 sellers for me at livestock shows.
Any heavy-duty PROFESSIONAL-USE clipper will support your wide blades if the blades and the clippers are properly maintained.  With that said, I will say if you know you do not maintain your tools properly, a corded Andis 5 speed clipper can absorb a lot of abuse.  (In saying that, I am not supporting abusing your tools.  Haha)  If you go out and buy the newest cordless clippers and then never oil or do regular maintenance, I can assure you, they will be mailed in for repair. 

If you have a clipper you think may need repair, I like helping folks DIY via video calls to save you money.  I also accept mail-in work so sharpening, repairs, etc.  I am here for it.

If you would like to purchase a 3FW, find them on my website, here:
Bucchelli 3FW | MY CLARK PLACE
Take time to look around and see what other awesome products I carry.  I carry All For Groomers, Groomer Supply House, and Bucchelli products.

For more information on sharpening and repairs:
Sharpening And Repairs | Clark’s Precision Sharpening (myclarkplace.com)


Jessica Clark
Owner of Clark’s Precision Sharpening
www.myclarkplace.com

Written by Jessica Clark
www.myclarkplace.com
*Note: This was written and posted on Groomies prior to Hershey 2023, BUT still good info for any 1st-Time Show Goers!*

I get so many excited messages from groomers who are about to attend their first grooming expos.  The questions vary, but there are a few that really come up a lot:

               What sort of deals should I expect at the show?

               What booths should I go to first?

               Will there be sharpening at the show?

               What should I buy?

               What classes should I take?

While some of my answers are opinion-based, I always give my reasoning as objectively as possible.  In other words, my opinion on what brands are best will be followed by fact-based reasoning.  I urge you to form your own opinions as well, and consider this just a guideline for how to choose products and services on your own.

Show Deals & What Booths To Go To First (my method to the madness)

Most of the vendors know what they are going to run deals and specials on far before the show begins.  They create flyers, they run contests, they do social-media challenges for prizes, and everyone is trying to create the most show-stopping deal which usually is achievable through product bundling.  The only downside to show deals is the buyer’s remorse you feel after purchasing something that you see for $100+ less at another booth 15 minutes later.  For this reason, planning is key.  You want every purchase to be deliberate.  Fight impulsivity!  To create a plan:

First make a list of items on your wish list for your salon.  This should always be the first step because if you do the steps out of order, you may want to add items based on what vendors will be at the show.  Trust me, go after the items you know you need first. 

Once you have a list of items, look online and price what the going rates are for these items so you can establish a realistic budget. 

Now, look up the floor plan for the expo to see what vendors will be where.  If there are vendors you don’t know much about, now is a good time to research the brands or ask online.  You can see if they have websites with show flyers or upcoming deals, etc.  Ask on social media who has used these retailers or service providers.  Most everyone has brand ambassadors and loyal customers who will jump in and say something.  There are also always the folks who have had negative experiences, so listen to what everyone has to say.  I am confident if someone asked about me, I would have lots of shining reviews, but there would be a few naysayers as well.  It is to be expected, and it haunts me, but it happens.

Once you have researched the vendors you want to check out make a checklist of those booths.  Your first expo will be a lot to take in.  You will see gorgeous competition dogs, grooming gods and goddesses roaming around talking and taking pictures with people, crowds, vendors with huge gorgeous displays, shiny brand new grooming tools, freebies (always get the samples and booth freebies!), flyers (take any flyer handed to you!), demos happening at booths, oh and you have to remember to make it to your classes between shopping ventures.  So yes, make a list of the booths you want to make it to! 

Now, the hardest part for me is discipline.  Even if you KNOW you see the deal for you, make a full loop to make sure before you buy anything.  This will help you avoid that remorse of missing a great deal elsewhere.  Make it to those booths you wanted to stop by, and don’t overlook the booths you may not be familiar with.  Cross reference your initial list of items needed for your salon/groom station, and write down which booths have the best deals on the items you need.  (Having show flyers ahead of time can make this a speedier process, but still make a loop!)

Remember, when we as vendors prepare for these shows, we are buying enough inventory to meet the demands of the expo based on previous years’ sales and attendees.  With that in mind, hot deals can sometimes sell fast.  Also, keep in mind, there are amazing vendors for this upcoming Hershey Expo that stock mostly handmade/homemade inventory.  Jessica of Vanity Fur prepares most of her items at home from her living room, and I picture my dear friend, Amanda of Celtic K9, has lived by her sewing machine preparing inventory day and night for this.  These are 2 amazing vendors I expect to sell out at the show!  And it definitely isn’t for lack of inventory; it is just good, creative stuff! 

Once you find the best deals on your listed items, verify they are quality (see what to buy below), and make your final shopping loop to get your items!  In many cases, you will have money left over in your budget, so now you can go back and buy the extra items you learned you want from your initial loop around the vendor booths!

Sharpening

Sharpening at the shows can be a mixed bag.  There will be some folks who show up and primarily they are just there to sharpen.  Others are retailers who will sharpen after hours to try having orders done before the show ends.  (That is right.  Team No-Sleep.)  There are other sharpeners at the shows retailing who collect all of the sharpening at the show and mail it back when it is completed.  GSH (Groomer Supply House) is at nearly every show and expo these days.  I am a part of this group, so I am admittedly biased, but I can say I trust each sharpener that makes up this team.  Everything is done right, and if you are unpleased for whatever reason, each sharpener will do what it takes to make sure you are pleased.  Unfortunately at Hershey, the GSH booth will only be offering retail, not sharpening.  At the upcoming Fun In The Sun Show in Florida, however, GSH will offer sharpening through Lance Hayner, owner of Sharpies Sharpening based near Disney in Florida.  So if you are going from show to show, and sharpening will be needed soon, bring it to Fun in The Sun!

Obviously you can choose whatever sharpener you want, but always ask for their contact information in case anything doesn’t cut right or has an issue.  Also, ask them what their policy is on reworking or fixing items that may not be to your liking.  It never hurts to take a picture of your tools before sharpening as a safeguard for yourself.  You better believe anything I am receiving in my shop, I take a before picture as well.  Having pictures of your tools before using a new sharpener just in case anything goes wrong is totally acceptable.  Also, I recommend if anything goes wrong to have the courtesy to reach out to the sharpener about resolving the issues before blasting them on social media.  I groomed over a decade, and I understand the rage I have felt after having my tools jacked up, but have some grace.  Remember, these sharpeners’ businesses are feeding their families, and mistakes happen.  Give them a chance to fix it before you wreck their business.

Also, please don’t throw away anything you believe a sharpener has ruined.  A lot of folks have a bad experience and never want to reach out to the sharpener again so they throw out their “ruined” tools.  I have convinced groomers to give me a chance to fix their ruined stuff before, and I am able to get it back to cutting great.  I am totally here to help, but I will always recommend reaching out to the initial sharpener so you can save money and have it fixed by them.

What Should I Buy?

I think it is easier to say what you should not buy.  Do not buy junk.  You want to buy tools that will last you in the long run!  For dryers, electric tables and tubs, clippers, etc, you want to be completely sure you can get repair parts as needed for these items.  You would be surprised at the clippers I have seen folks get and blade drives/levers are almost impossible to find.  Or when groomers spend $1000+ on a grooming table, and then they are unable to get parts on it to do repairs.  That means they have to buy a whole new table or rig something up.  Another common money pit I see is when groomers choose to save money buying a cheaper dryer.  You will never find motor brushes for those dryers.  Even some of the bigger brands will tell you they never have motor brushes or motors in stock.  I can tell you, spend the extra money to get the dryer with available maintenance and repair parts.  You will save money in the long run.  While I do not want to bash any brands, the brands that I do trust are Aeolus, K9, Sullivans, Double K, and Metrovac.  If you are on the market for a dryer, ask first where you can get motor brushes for the dryer you are interested in.  Ask who services the dryers.  If you cannot tell, I am so tired of seeing my dog grooming friends bring me dryers that I cannot get any parts for.  I hate seeing people get ripped off, and that is a total rip!

Also, always ask what the warranty plans are, and make sure you are using the tools as they are designed to be used.  Warranty stipulations will vary and sometimes it can be tricky to navigate as a consumer.  A limited warranty may deny claims made for items showing evidence of misuse.  Be sure to understand what is covered by your warranty.  I know Wahl offers a 5-year warranty on clippers, and that is pretty iron-clad.  Andis, Aeolus, and Heiniger have 1-year warranties.  Also note, a manufacturer warranty means even if you buy your item from me or another vendor, you can still utilize the warranty through the manufacturer. 

If you are looking at shears, 440C and VG-10 are the best metals for shears.  You are likely to find this quality with Groomer Supply House, AGS, Zolitta, Kenchii, Geib, and Utsumi to list a few of my favorites.  I also strongly recommend sticking to standard metal finish.  Even with the top brands, I see the lowest quality and worst manufacturing on the colorful, “blingy” shears. 

There are shears manufacturers who see sharpeners encouraging groomers to look for 440C or better metals, so they simply stamp 440C on them.  Another common thing you see is Japanese Steel stamped on everything.  There are so many quality shears meeting various price points!  Look for the known brands.  Find sales representatives who know what they are talking about when they talk shears with you.  I know at the Groomer Supply House booths, you will often see the sharpeners and the competition groomers & ambassadors at the booth.  This allows you to hear about the shear quality and details perhaps only the sharpener would pay close attention to, AND you get to hear the groomers telling you what is awesome about each shear as far as use and what coats it does the best on.  Another big perk is the Groomer Supply House booth usually has some sort of maintenance class as well just to teach you more about your tools and how to best care for them.  Even if you think you know all there is to know, tune in from time to time to these maintenance classes.  Much like grooming, these practices evolve as the tools evolve.

If you are planning to shop products such as shampoos, conditioners, colognes, etc, be sure to ask if there are Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) available.  Many groomers are beginning to carry these in their salons for products.  It is especially important to know how to quickly respond to any product-related incidents when we have people’s beloved pets in our care.  While MSDS are not mandatory in salons, they are an additional way to safeguard your facility by being well-prepared.

Classes

I recommend trying to take as many classes as possible.  I strongly believe the best way to combat burnout is continued education.  That said, pick things that are going to be important to you.  Pick classes that will match the clientele that you want to attract.  The only exception to this is I recommend everyone take a difficult dog class.  These classes help you take extra considerations and be more mindful of the dogs you groom in general as well as teaching you how to handle those that can be extremely challenging and reactive.  One of my favorite groomers that I mentor is taking hand-stripping this year at Hershey.  I am so excited for her because she owns a giant schnauzer, aspires to compete in the future, and wants to offer hand-stripping services here in Mississippi. 

Pick what you are passionate about, and I will never judge you about what classes you take or don’t take.  I am here to cheer you on as you pursue your passion.

I hope everyone attending the upcoming expos has fun, learns bunches, and gets to travel home with suitcases of cool stuff!  I wish I could be there, but I have a local livestock show I am sharpening for.  I cannot let my local 4H kids down by not showing up to cheer them on.  That said, please visit the Groomer Supply House, Celtic K9, All For Groomers, and Vanity Fur booths!  Get pictures, and tag me so I can feel like I am there too! 

What’s THAT Cut Like?

Jessica Clark
Groomer. Sharpener. Enthusiast.
www.myclarkplace.com

Have you ever been browsing online and you see some wicked looking toothed shears pop up?  I swear, my first question used to be, “what’s THAT cut like?!”  I would even ask sales reps or sharpeners, but as much as I love my sharpening family, the answers would still leave me with questions.. Mainly, “I mean.. but what does it CUT like?…”  Can you relate? 

I remember I asked one of my sharpening friends to explain what a piano tooth fluffer cut like, and he said, “well, you know, thinners catch hair, while chunkers push it, so since the teeth are smooth, it will push instead of catch.”  Like, seriously, are y’all following?  I was not.  So of course, I bought the shears, used them, and still thought, “yup.  That was a weird way to describe how they cut.”

Now that I have a better understanding of the sharpening side of things and what he was saying, I want to see if I can use that knowledge to help describe how shears will cut based on their characteristics and features.

Blenders, Thinners, Chunkers, Fluffers.. What is What?

Initially this was going to be the topic of this week’s article, but unfortunately, while gathering information to neatly present what is what, there was a lot of conflicting information.  As it would turn out, there is NOT agreement on terminology AT ALL.  In fact, I was so positive I knew exactly what was what, and then I found other manufacturers, groomers, and sharpener/retailers who stated 3 totally different definitions of what is what.  For instance, there is a huge divide that says true thinners have thinning teeth on both sides and blenders have thinning teeth only on one side with a cutting edge.  I decided this was not a war I want to start, so instead, let’s just focus on characteristics of the shears instead of what the correct names for each are. 

The Sandpaper Analogy

I have no clue who started this brilliant analogy, but I saw it come up a few times in other grooming groups from various people.  With sandpaper, the higher the grit is, the less is removed from the surface you are sanding.  Higher grit also means a smoother finish.  This is also the case with toothed shears.  The shears with more teeth are always going to remove the least amount of hair and leave the smoothest finish.  This will typically be the thinning style shears with very fine teeth, typically v-notched.  NOTE:  There are exceptions dictated by spacing.  Some Chunkers do not have much spacing so they have a smoother finish despite low teeth counts.  Some cosmetology thinners I have seen have huge spacing between very thin v notched teeth.  These obviously take very small amounts of hair despite their low teeth count.  For the most part however, these rules will be applicable.

Chunkers will always have the least amount of teeth in comparison to the other styles.  These also will remove the most hair and leave the roughest look.  When I was trained to groom, chunkers were not even a thing, and the boxy little matrix finish they leave never sat right with me.  I see other groomers who turn out beautiful work using the ones I sell however, and I will never understand.  Hats off to you, my friends!  Yes I know grooming is an ever-changing industry, and when it comes to chunkers, I failed to adapt.  Haha

Piano-Tooth Fluffers, have more teeth than a chunker, but less than a thinner.  In my opinion, they are the Goldie Locks shears because they are just right.  Thinners take too long to remove hair (yes, I am ADHD and I like to have instant results).  Chunkers remove too much and leave castle towers in the coat.  But piano-tooth shears debulk a decent amount AND still manage to leave a smooth finish.  They will always be my favorite. 

Tooth Style

Understanding the style of teeth on the shears you are using will help you imagine what the hair removal will be like.  When the sharpener had told me thinners catch hair, I was thinking about that wrong.  I pictured how serrations catch hair.  The v-notch is more like a guillotine.  Hair gets settled down in that notch, and as the cutting edge of the shears closed, the trapped hair is sliced off. 

Smooth teeth like chunkers and piano tooth shears are going to allow hair to push as the shears are closed, but will cut a decent amount as well.  If the teeth are serrated, more hair will stick on the teeth and cut so that will increase removal a bit too. 

Tooth Spacing

Tooth spacing is going to play a role too because if the teeth have big gaps in between, less hair will be removed and the finish will be more staggered.  Teeth that are closer together will have less length left in between the teeth obviously and more hair removed.

Single teeth vs Double teeth

Double thinners will remove bulk faster than a single thinner will.  The way it works out, there is simply more hair getting caught and cut than there is with a single thinner.  As far as double chunkers, the Tsunami Chunkers by GSH have teeth on both sides, but the cutting edge only has shallow teeth.  These have wide teeth, low count, so you would think, based on the sandpaper analogy, they would leave a rough finish, but with the unique design (due to narrow spacing) these actually leave a very natural smooth finish.  The style is best suited, in my opinion, for silhouette cuts and fluffy butts.  (It has a ring to it if you say it sort of with a swing to emphasize the words ‘cuts’ and ‘butts’, so just try it out, and you are welcome.)

There are many types of teeth on the market.  Some are for function, some are for looks, some will change the industry.  Hopefully this article will help you better visualize what each style of shear will cut like.  If you ever have any questions on what a shear cuts like, feel free to reach out to me and I will post a video showing how shears cut on test hair.  This is a great reason to attend shows too.  Vendors offer test hair and you can see how each shear cuts so you know exactly what you would want to use them on.

Also remember, while there are thousands of sharpeners out there, not all are created equally.  I have invested my entire savings in the tools, training, inventory, and miscellaneous expenses to be the best sharpener I can be.  There are many sharpeners that struggle with toothed shears and these typically are the most difficult to repair bad sharpening on.  Please keep this in mind if you invest a lot of money in your toothed-shears.  Enjoy!

Teeth Pictures and Explanations

V-Notched Thinners:  In case you are not familiar with V-Notches, now You can see them.  Also notice how thin the teeth are.  These thin teeth will only capture minimal hair between the tiny V-Notch for the least hair taken.  These are ideal on fine details on faces and for surface finishing.

Tsunami Chunker:  These are the double sided chunkers that have shallow smooth teeth on the cutting side and deep narrowly spaced smooth teeth on the other.  These are an exception to the sandpaper analogy because while the teeth count is low, due to the narrow spacing, they still leave a cleaner finish.  These also remove the most bulk out of the listed examples due to width of teeth and narrowness of spacing.  They are ideal for silhouettes and natural shaping.

Chunker:  A regular chunker has smooth teeth flared to have a large cutting surface but also at the narrow base, a wide spacing for hair to avoid being cut in between (the chunky look).  The lower teeth count means more hair is removed. 

Piano Tooth Fluffers:  These have more teeth than a chunker, and less teeth than a thinner so many refer to them as a thinner or a hybrid.  In my mind, a Thinner will only be a true thinner of it has V-notches.  This is my opinion, and as mentioned before, all groomers and manufacturers have their own opinions on what is what, but since the teeth are smooth on these shears, I consider them more like a chunker that leaves a smooth finish.  Key features:  Smooth teeth, narrow teeth spacing, moderate width of teeth.  These remove hair quickly like a chunker but with a finish similar to the thinner.  Ideal for outlining, faces, and quick detail work on wiggly faces (sometimes a wiggly face needs faster results than a thinner can yield).

Double Thinner:  Though this picture is not high quality, these shears will typically have thinner shaped teeth on both sides.  Typically the cutter teeth will be smooth and opposite side is V-Notched.  I really like them for all the things I would use single thinners on, but just in a quicker thinning speed.  These are gaining popularity, however some groomers get them and never love them or set them aside.  Also, I commonly get these shipped to me because other sharpeners have said they cannot sharpen them. 

Groomer to Sharpener Insight.  Week 3.

Everyday the question seems to be, “Which cordless clipper should I get?”  As a former groomer, I know exactly what I like and what I can use based on my hands and preference.  If you have had (or currently have) any hand damage/injuries or shoulder injuries (rotator cuff), I am immediately going to strongly urge that you are getting a lighter clipper.  There are plenty of light cordless clippers, however the 3 that I strongly suggest are the Heiniger Opal, Heiniger Saphir, and the Oster Volt (Same as the Saphir!). 
I have some CMC joint issues and arthritis in that joint, so the boxy smaller shape of those 3 clippers is very ideal for me.  Also, having arthritic joints, you don’t want something with a lot of vibration.  I can use those 3 clippers without irritating my hands at all.

If you are grooming with your strong hand (haha), I really like the Wahl KMX.  It is about 1.5-2 oz heavier than the clippers mentioned above, BUT they have the fastest top speed offered on a cordless clipper.  They match the top speed of the Pulse ZR2, BUT they are about an ounce or so lighter.  Both the ZR2 and the KMX are LOVED by the livestock community.  For this reason, Wahl often sells the KMX with a blocking blade, but all of your grooming blades will still work on this clipper.  If you buy from a sharpener, most of us will sell it with a 30W instead because YOU NEVER NEED TO USE A BLOCKING BLADE ON A DOG!  (This is used for cutting through adhesives in cattle fitting.) 

You may want to know which clippers are the safest bet as far as durability, warranty, and likelihood of breaking.  So here is the good, the bad, and the ugly.
With all things in mass manufacturing, there can always be a lemon in the bunch.  Buy from trusted retailers, sharpeners, or manufacturers.  That way if you have an out of the box issue or need warranty help, you will have assistance the whole way through.  Also, it is important, as soon as you NOTICE an issue, let the seller know.  Even if it is an issue that has worked itself out, you want that documented that there was a hiccup in case it presents again later on.

How do I pick the right clipper for me?
I got to work a booth the first time at Groom’d.  I would tell folks, “You have to see how the clippers feel in your hand.”  Groomers would pick the clipper up, do a lil hand jig, and say yup.  I’m intrusive.. like a bad weed.  Haha  I would say, “no like really see how it feels.. turn it on.. hold it like you are clipping.. notice weight, balance, and vibration, and how it agrees with your hand.”  I probably sound crazy but these are all important things.  Some clippers are loved by my clients for the same reasons that other groomers HATE them.  You have to decide if you like where the power switch is at.. does your hand comfortably wrap around the clipper?  Do you notice the weight?  I recommend feeling every shear and every clipper you are considering at the trade shows if possible.  Or ask in your salon if you can just see how tools fit in your hand.. start a groomer swap in your area.  All too often I line my clients up with each other.  Those tools in your bottom drawer may be exactly what another groomer wants for their top work station area.  And vice versa.  I love to get sales, but I also love seeing tools not getting wasted as dust collectors in bottom drawers.  lol

Who has what for warranties?
-All Andis clippers have a 1-year manufacturer warranty.  You can call or email them to reach support, but I highly recommend calling.  I have emailed before as a groomer, and got no response.  Calling will get you fairly quick help.

-Wahl has a 5-year manufacturer warranty.  The warranty center is easy to reach via phone, and you simply box items and ship them in for repair.  I have utilized the warranty program, and it was a smooth process.  The ONLY downside was it did take about a month to get my clippers back, and there was no call or confirmation of delivery.  The service WAS free though.  Simply be sure you keep up with your tracking number when you ship and get insurance to protect the value of your tools being sent. 

-Heiniger offers warranty of 2 years from manufacturing date (not date of purchase).  The warranty covers manufacturing defects and not damage, misuse, or normal wear. 

What if I don’t want to use the warranty?

Many groomers reach out and for whatever reason they do not want to pursue a warranty repair.  Maybe they want the fastest service or they do not have their proof of purchase or they just simply want me to fix it because they know me (or Facebook know me!) and they can put a face to who is servicing their tools.  If you do not want to use the warranty, ask your sharpener if these are clippers they repair.  If it is important to you to have a clipper that can be repaired by your sharpener, ask them what they service when you consider what you want to buy!  Your sharpener may even sell the clippers you are looking for, or have a used pair for sale!  When folks ask me about clippers I always tell them to see how they feel in their hands.  If you do this, be sure blade and battery are attached for a realistic representation. 

Which Clippers can I get parts for?

I am still a newer sharpener, but so far in my experience, oster and heiniger parts have been the easiest to get.  Andis has a few parts that can be difficult to locate but they are around.  Wahl has a restrictive parts list.  Anyone can purchase Wahl maintenance parts such as hinges, levers, and replacement cords, but repair parts such as motors, PCBs, and batteries are restricted to different levels of their maintenance team.  Wahl service centers can do more repairs, and the warranty center is responsible for battery repairs and warranty.  (To my knowledge.)  If you want a clipper that your sharpener can fix, be sure to ask them which clippers they repair.  The only ones I do not do are the Wahl, but I have a preferred Wahl Repair Center I ship to if my clients want me to.

Hope this is helpful.  I tried to cover a lot here so it may be vague.  Ask questions!

Also, Special thanks to the big influx of website traffic and purchases.  I am a little behind on getting everything shipped out, but I am trying to grow to keep up and be the best I can be to help everyone out.  Here is a pic of my dog petey.  I missed grooming so I made him a tiedye boy this week.  I still suck at getting pictures.  I did his nails after the picture, I promise.. lol